3ma problems

[deonillovo]

Good day all first i must introduce myself my name is Deon from South Africa i have just found am 3ma quite an old one about 89 or so but in mint condition barring some cosmetic work,but i am having some problems with the carbs i think the bike runs well but it seems when it is under load and below 5000 rpm it has i slight flat spot and it will not get over 8500 rpm i have changed reed valves and redone carbs all standard but i am quite sure it has to do with the carbs or so i think i also have replaced the plugs with the original ones from the agents could some one help me as here in SA not many guys seem to know what is happening could i do something else Please help guys


Many thanks;Deon

[louis]

Hi Deon,

Have you checked your pv settings. does it go's fully open?
Does left and right go's together? (perhaps connector in between is worn out)
are the cables connected right? 1 on 1 and 2 on 2?

Are your airjets opening/closing you should here some clicks wen bike is on contact and playing with throttle.
With airjet sises doe you have? (three the carb, six total)
With cdi are you using 3ma-00 ore 3ma01? this because of diverend opening of airjets.

Does your TPS sensor is connected well?

[deonillovo]

Hi louis i have checked all but as i mentioned it is an old bike and some of the original things are missing a have checked the pv and their is quite alot of play on the connecting shaft will that be my problem and how do i change it ??

Thanks for your help

Cheers Deon

[louis]

With original tings are missing?

You can take the connecting shaft out, it has two side's, one that has a rubber flat side and the other is total from aluminium.
You can try to file a bit from the connecting shaft, so that they are having a tighter fit.
It is not the nicest solution, but you can try it.

But i don't think that is the problem, don't want to rev past 8500rpm is not a problem fore a bit of free play from the connecting shaft.

perhaps this is some thing?

http://tzr250.com/forums/index.php/topic,1248.0.html

How much voltage do you have?

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis Deon here again i have checked all that is possible and i did check the play on the connecting shafts there is quite a lot of play when i switch on the bike and the servo does its clearing action the side with the cables moves quite a lot but the other side does not move at all i did try and clean it and found it to be free not jamming at all all the carbs look okay.
I took the bike for a ride and found on pull of she is bogging down very little power and she is smoking a lot as well as very heavy on fuel the side were the pv valve is does not stop smoking i also have checked the compression all seems fine
When the bike stands i can rev it quite easy but once again when i take it for a test drive it is awful and boggs down and sputters then she gets going once im am over the 4800 rpm mark what else could i look at AND MUST BOTH PV VALVES OPEN AT THE SAME TIME AND BE RIGID.
I will be ordering another connecting shaft block from the agents
If possible culd you also tell me which is the correct pv settings is 1 open and 2 closed or visa versa and where should the cut out notch be
Please help and thanks for your previous help

Cheers;Deon

[louis]

Yes the power valves has to open the same time. So a new connecting shaft will be a big step forwards.

The power valve opens differently, depending on with cdi you have,
3ma-00 cdi has its pv open when its on idle.
3ma-01 cdi has its pv closed when on idle.

Normally the cut out notch is in center with the hole, when he has done his cleaning cycle

you cleaned the carbs, did you also clean the Little filters inside the hose tube off the carbs, they are very Small filters inside the connecting fore the petrol hose.

How big are your mains standard is 180/190 fitting 220 with snorkels cut is a good start.

I think you have a ignition problem, can you switch the ignition cables from R to L and see if the other pipe is smoking then.
Normally it will make no diverens it is one Bobine. but perhaps the connectors inside are worn. (had it ones on a rd350)

smoking a lot? did you check the oil pump settings? and are both oil hoses connected replase them by some transparent ones you can see if they getting oil.

Also there are two oil draining connectors L and R they are connected under the reedblocks they are one way wen it is broken it works both ways that is not good they should work only one Way (you can check it by sucking/blowing one them do use a long transparent hose you don't want to suck the oil, when you suck at them they should close)

But try something with ignition, new plugs ore change the coil etc.

[Edd]

Hi;

I agree with Louis diagnostic, first get the power valves to open simultaniously, that should get the bike to rev past 8000. The smoking can be a draining problem or an ignition problem. For my money I will say draining problem, once you get the bike to hit 11 000 she will burn out the oil that is not draining at this stage. The carbs and float levels are 90% of the time why these bikes do not perform well. By the way I am from SA where in the country are you from?

My suggestion fix one thing at a time and when you set the float levels use the tube method 5-7mm above the botom bowl. I have on numerous occasions found that the needle seat assemblies are not sealing properly.

[rz350]

Have similar problems with my bike...doesnt like going past 8-9000 rpm really struggles, checked the floats they were at 17.9mm as per manual should be 18.9-20.9 mm, set them to 20 mm, didnt check the result yet. Whats you compression in the cylinders?
Mine is 6.5 atm.

[deonillovo]

Hi Edd i am in Natal South Africa actually in Amanzimtoti here is my number give me a call and we could try and work with each other
0832947718

Cheers Deon

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis i have 180 mains all look quite standard as per factory specs i have just sorted out the connecting shaft and will start it up over the weekend please explain what you mean when you say switch the ignition cables from L/R not sure what you mean and yes the cdi i am using is a 3ma00 i also have adjusted the reed valve braces and checked the carbs which are standard 32 mm mukini crbs i have set the needle position to center is this okay or could you tell me how to set them is the top more or is the bottom clip position less

Many thanks for your help as i am in a fix with this bike your help will be greatly welcomed

Cheers;Deon

[louis]

Hi Deon,

Well then is your carbs setup fully standard, that's good.
Do you have the snorkels in the airbox? if you have them out, go a bit bigger on the mains. 210/220 will be a good start.
with 180 standard you have the 3ma1 second setup (150 is the first setup from factory) if I'm right you don't have the balance pipe connected between the two reedbloks rubbers, you can switch them from L to R and and use one off the pipes to connect them in the middle. (works greed on my bike)
Don't forget to clean ore take out the Little filters inside the connecting pipe from the petrol hose of the carbs? if they full of rust it can make your engine do strange thinks.

forget about the ignition, what i mend is you can switch the cables from L sparkplug to R sparkplug to see if the smoking barrel is also going from L to R.
Normally it will not make a differens because you have one coil for two barrels. (i had it ones with a rd350 that one ignition cable off the coil was not fully connected in the coil) but i think your smoking exhaust has more to do with a leaking oil drain connector (the one under the reedblok holders) but ones you have the engine right and you can ref up to 11000 it will burn the rest of the oil that is remaining there.

The needle clip in middle position is good no problem, you can always change them later wen the engine is running good.

You can check your pv settings with a running engine.
Ref your engine up to +/-6500rpm and the pv shoud start to open, and by +/-8500rpm the pv is fully open.
The 3ma-00 cdi works from close to open.
The 3ma-01 cdi works from open to close and from close to open (starts open and by +/-2000 closes and opens by 6500)

[Edd]

Morning Guys;

Louis, these drain pipes you referred to please explain their purpose, are they for lubricating of the conrod bearings? Are they only there to drain off excess twostroke oil. I changed mine just recently been struggling with gearbox oil entering my crank case. Since I have done that I am burning less gearbox oil (assume). Under heavy acceleration the bike smokes then it stops once the oil is burned off , it doesn't smell like twostroke oil that's why I assume gearbox oil.

Thanks

[TZR-V4]

Hi,

If you're burning gear box oil that means : left crank seal gone (should be left pipe only).

Olivier.

[Edd]

Hi Oliver;

I assume that is the flywheel side you are refering to? I did replace the one on the right you could see it was leaking, there was a white paste forming around the seal. My dad was riding the bike and I was behind him and both pipes were smoking under initial acceleration. If you keep the revs up no smoke as soon as we slow down for a km or two and accelerate she smokes for 5 seconds then nothing. I think it is the two centre seals that are leaking or I have a crack in the casing some where. I purchased the bike as spares and decided to build her up.The engine was partly stripped the guy told me he had water comming into the gearbox and that caused the gearbox to lock up. How that happened I dont know. I am hoping the seals needs to heat up and seat but that's only wishful thinking.

[Warwick]

Are you sure it's burning gearbox oil, Edd? The smoking after some low load running seems very common with 3MAs. Not sure if it's just about carb set-up or if it's a bit of an inherent feature fo the reverse cylinder motor that it kind of 'loads up' with unburnt fuel and oil under low load conditions and then burns this off when you open it up a bit more? I suspect that in part at least it is related to the engine design myself as I've never seen the funny crancase pump/intake drains on any other bike... Certainly seems to be the case that careful carb set-up (in particular leaning them off a bit on part throttle) can reduce this issue massively though.