derestricting my 3ma1

[Edd]

Hi all;

I know you guys are just dying to help out. Been reading all the posts on removing the restrictions but cant find the place where you discussed removing the rev limiter. Took out exhaust restrictions, cut plastic intakes on airbox. Understand the speedo limiter will take that off and tape it down or remove metal strip completely(decisions!). With current mods bit stronger mid range but when I hit 9500 rpm to 10800 rpm split second (weird to describe like a on off switch) I believe I need more revs to get an oppurtunity to feel the power kicking in. How do I get the bike to rev past 10800 rpm. The bike revs up but the acceleration in relation to how quickly the bike picks up revs(9500-10800) is not computing.

[louis]

That is strange, normally you should be capable off hitting the 11500/12000rpm
about +/-10800rpm the rev limiter kicks in, that is right.

Cant you rev it up in lower gears, or is the 10800 just max rpm

Could be a couple off thinks

1) does your speedometer work, can you read the speed (not working, metal tap stays between the optics giving the rev limiter signal to the cdi)
2) broken wire ore not connected wires from the speedometer to cdi (not connected gives the same signal to the cdi to start the rev limiter)
3) Tps sensor not working right or 180 degrees wrong mounted (its a save mode then, I had that ones)

Just some thinks fore you to check

There will be more ideas coming from me or other 3ma riders it is just a meter off time
This forum will solve this problem, no problem

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

Yers speedo is working fine, tps sensor right way around, and I havent removed the metal tap yet or disconected the electronics(I can do either or; it will have the same net result). If I understand you correctly this is then the reason why it stops at 10800 rpm?

Thanks

[louis]

Hi Edd,

No not exactly, the rev limiter works wen the metal tap is between the two optics. That is when she is standing still ore when you hit the 180kmh

Everything between the 20kmh and 180kmh is full power the rev limiter is not active

I do not understand it completely what do you mean with on/off switch?

If 10800rpm is the max you have, then there is something ells the problem.
Are you sure that the tps sensor is working correct.?

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

When I get to 9500rpm the revs go up to 10800 as if I am hitting a switch(split second). Strange scenario? I have another spare speedo took the electronics out taped it close will be putting that on my bike this weekend. Did not trim the metal tap left as is. How do I test the tps sensor if it is working properly?

Thanks for your time.

[louis]

Hi Edd,

Very strange scenario, if i understand it correctly:
The bike pules normally till 9500rpm then shoots to 10800rpm but wont go futher?

Perhaps you have two thinks? it is hart to say what it is.

When you get to 9500rpm the power starts to kick in, if you have worn clutch plates it pulls right through them and shoots to 10800 where the limiter kicks in (because off wrong connection or not working speedometer)

You really start to make me think

I'm not working anymore with the standart cdi unit, i use ignitech. So i cant tell you exactly what all vealuse has to be.
You can measure the signal from the speedometer
Believe it was +/-4Volts when the metaltap is between the optics and +/-2Volts if it is not standing between the optics.
Measure it at the cdi unit to make sure the signal is working. Believe it is the red/blue and green/blue to be measured on.

Regarding to the TPS sensor, if the bike is not running and only set on contact if you play with throttle you should here the airjets solenoids clicking with a 3ma-00 cdi  (3ma-01 cdi is working differend)
You can al so measure the tps sensor:
black is 0Volts
Blue about 4.5/5 Volts
Yellow is the variable one so a signal between 2Volts and 5Volts depending on the throttle position.

But I still hart to tel what it is

Cheers

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

Yes my sentiments exactly clutch slipping, however I need to get to at least 11500 to confirm, need to get it to slip for longer if that makes sense. So first things first I am trying to get a hold of the topic Warwic posted on the deristriction of a 3ma. I have read through it ages ago and cant find it. There was a lot of guys who gave input in that discussion on the circuit board removal and trimming of the metal tab in the speedo. Some guys said remove it others said no trim it back. I can not remember the outcome of that discussion as some guys said they will still test some theories. I wil ignore all of that because it is confusing ne as the old memory isnt as sharp as it used to be.

You are saying trim back the tab as per the photo Warwick posted leave a bit behind this will increase rpm or remove the rev limiter between 20km/h and 180km/h.
I have already removed the circuit board on a spare speedo will fit that do a test run and see if that has an effect. Next step I will replace circuit board and trim back metal tab as per photo. Will keep you posted if this is working, if not I will test tps and air solinoids as per your recomendations.

PS I did check air solinoids they are functioning.

Thanks

[louis]

Hi Edd,

If you have removed the circuit board from the speedo and connect the circuit board. It should work
It will give the right signal to the cdi unit (no metal tap between the optics)


Make sure that the signal is coming to your cdi unit, I have a feeling that it is not reaching it.
(if you drive lets say 80kmh and go you go full throttle the rev limiter is not working because the metal of the speedo is not between the optics you could reach 12000rpm with no problem then)
But with your bike it does not mater witch speed you driving, the revs wont go higher then 10800, there fore i think the signal is not correct to the cdi

The 3ma has not really a rev limiter its more a speed limiter it raters the ignition when you hit the 180 kmh
same effect is when you have it on a dyno (frond wheel in not turning metal tap is between the optics and rev/speed limiter kicks in)

Let us know how it go's

Cheers

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

Thanks for the reply now I understand what they were on about. So with or without the matal tab or pc board the bike will rev up to 12000. I have a diffrent problem. Then on second thought I will rather start with the signal to the cdi my rev limiter is always on as if the bike is standing. Will keep you posted, see if I can get some work done tonight.

Edd

[louis]

That is correct, when you have a speed between 20kmh and 180kmh the rev limiter is not working and you can rich max rpm.

The same problem occurs when you don't connect the speedo meter to your cdi. than it wont let you rem more than the 10500/10800rpm. Its a safety thing

Look to this mov and you will see its revs up to 12000rpm, and i think its completely stock

89` YAMAHA?TZR250? 3MA ?	Small | Large

Cheers

[Edd]

Louis;

What can I say, once again you have saved me. Decided to leave the speedo for now and check the tps and air solinoids. You were on the money the air solinoids were not opening. I tested them about 3 months ago before I fitted them to the bike and they were working fine. I took off the tps sensor turned it by hand and they were working again. On  closer inspection the plastic into which the tps sensor switch is inserted to, on the carb (hope this make sense difficult to explain) is 45 degrees out. I fiiddeled with it turned the thing with my lpiers it was rotating on the shaft, when I pulled on it; it came off. The way this white plastic thing (dont know what it is called) fits onto the carb is with two ballbearings that are spring loaded these are on the carb shaft that opens the slides. The white plastic (lets call it a pick up) has two holes in it that fit over the ball bearings go keep it in place. My ballbearings needed some lubrication fitted the whole lot last night will keep you informed.

By the way my speedoe has a little black box that is connected to the wiring on the speedo optics? That why I decided not to change the speedo lets first see if it allows me to exceed 180km/h.

Cheers

[louis]

Edd,

Good that you found something. You! have trouble to define thinks? If i try it I need the whole forum space, and still nobody know what i mean

But this littel white thing, think will be this


Some Japanese rider had this problem to, and used some other, less sensitive tps sensor.


Regarding to your speedo, that little black box could be a derestricting box, than you will have no problem to go over the 180kmh

Do you still run 200 mains without no airbox?, be aware that if you want to reach 180kmh your carbs will be pretty lean at those high rpm's better to put some larger ones in

Cheers

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

That is the little white thing I was refering to. Got the standard airbox fitted with snorkels cut off as per tech paper. The bike is pulling beter from 7000rpm to 11000rpm but below 7000rpm It is missing something terribly symptoms of to much fuel. And at high rpm I think you are right she is lean very noisy the engine. You must remember I set up the bike with the air solinoids not working now they are and I changed the airbox to a standard one. Will have to start all over again.

Sad news though the bike stops reving at 11000 still restricted struggles to get over 180km/h. I need to get the bike leaner from 3000 to 6000 rpm will drop my needles one clip see if it helps if not I will probably have to install a smaller pilot jet. Not to sure but I will consult my mikuni 101 tech paper.

Edd

[louis]

Hi Edd,

It is good that she is riding a bid better, but same as me, you will always change thinks to a twostroke that is just the fun off it

Regarding:

Speedlimeter:
There where a view topics on this forum, that where saying the black box did not work on there bikes.
Did you try to connect only the circuit board?? that shout work.

Bad running below 7000rpm:
Why don't you have connected the air solenoids?? the are designed to lean the carbs from +/-3000rpm till 6000rpm

max running 11.00rpm:
Did you make the tps work properly, if it only turns a bid, you can rid in the wrong ignition map.
Think its important that the tps work properly also fore use off the air solenoids

Carbs setting:
This will always be a endless discussion (in a positive way) but original settings will allow the 3ma to rev 12.000rpm

(Personal) i would put in a couple off 220/230 leaf the snorkels out put the needle in second clip and use the air solenoids.
But that is just me

Let us now how it goes

Cheers

[Edd]

Hi Louis;

Fully agree with your last statement that will be plan A. My air solinoids are connected thats why I am a bit stumped with the bike running rich at low rpm. Maybe the white platic is not attached properly and the tps is only turning it partialy. Will investigate further. Also will change my speedo with one where I removed the circuit board incide the speedo and connected it on the outside.

Edd