3ma problems

[louis]

Hi Deon,

Your fuel consumption is a bit on the strong site i think, I never measured how far i can come with a full tank. but i have seen a 120km ones as i can remember. I just fill her up when she needs it.

Perhaps it has to do with the airjets you have theme fully open all the time.
I do not know you machinery skills, you can make it with a fixed airjet.

A other possibility is to connect a hose one the pipe and put in that hose a jet (example, 100 mainjet)
Here you have to connect the hoses on.


The 3ma is performing ferry well, consider it's a 21 year old twostroke.
perhaps when you have your carb setup right and removed the speed limiter you can overtake the 3xv and suprice him

Let me know how thinks are going in sa,

Cheers

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis thanks for the help and pics i see what you mean but as i told you before my bike is not and has not got the air solenoids sytem  will this be a problem or is their another set up and how to go about it as i also mentioned i am running a mod on the air box,the air box is cut of just above the T of the main adaption box will this make a difference as i think i am getting quite a lot of air into the carbs


Many thanks;Deon

[louis]

Hi Deon,

I know that you don't have the air solenoids but you should have the connecting pipes on the carbs. leaving them open like this the carbs getting whey to much air

I main, when you connect a hose on the air jetpipe's off the carbs. You can put in that hose a small jet to make the carbs suck less air
from the airjet connection.

(think the problem is my English , I hope you understand what I mean)

It is not good to let those air pipes open off the carbs, you have to make the pipe diameter smaller so they suck less air, and the easiest Way to do that is with a hose and a small jet in the hose.

About the airbox, you don't have it at all? or do you main the snorkels inside the airbox are cut?

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis thanks for the info once again,i have the 2 pipes blocked of and i only have the bottom half of the air box this is the part that fits onto the carbs will this allow lots of air into the carbs and what harm can it do???
I am going to fit 2 single cone air filters onto them over the weekend and see what happens sorry but this bike is a work in progress and i am trying to bring it back to its former lovely state

cheers Deon SA

[Edd]

Hi Deon;

Trying to get a hold of you no Luck? May have some spere parts if you are interested.

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis thanks for all your help and offering me some spares is it possible to let me know what type of spares you have as i need so engine and fairing spares you could email me on
deon65@hotmail.com as it will be difficult to contact we via phone as well as if you could let me know the price of the spare as i would have to get the money from my dad or mom and then do a EFT Money transfer into your bank

Many Thanks;Deon

[louis]

Hi Deon,

Look at the post.
It is Edd, who perhaps have spares fore you.
Hi lives also in SA

[deonillovo]

Hi Edd; my contact details are 0832947718 or you could email me on deon65@hotmail.com with the detailed list of parts and prices as well as your location so that we could get into contact with each other

Cheers;Deon

I am situated in kwa zulu natal (Amanzimtoti Area)

[deonillovo]

Hi Edd please could you contact me as i need to find out what spares you have thanks Deon 0832947718

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis i have managed to obtain the complete air box unit,i fitted them and took the bike for a ride it felt as if the bike is starving of fuel?? i then re adjusted the air mixture as well as the re balanced the carbs as i was getting a very bad low end response it seems to be better i also dropper the needle position bye 1 clip and it has made quite a huge difference but i am still having the bike boggs down and splutter under 5000rpm how could i over come this do i adjust the TPS a little??? or the carb balance screw or the float level

Please could you give me your email address as i would like to send you some pics as all my pics are larger than 500 kb and the forum will not allow me to upload a large file maybe you could help in this way

Many Thanks;Deon

[louis]

Deon,

I think your problem has to do with the blocking of the airjet intake from the carbs.

The carbs needs a bit off air flow to work better on low rpm's

I know parts are not easy to get in SA, so i try something out for you. I dit not test it but it is the cheapest way i think.

step 1
-tap a M4 into the air pipe that is easy to do.



step 2
-Fit in a airjet


That will do the trick you can easy re jet and is worth a try. When your engine has a airflow through the airjet pipe the engine will respond to that.

I do not know your mechanical skills, but the right way to do it is to drill out this bole and fit in there a airjet (warwickb ride with it)

but its a bit more work, and if you do it wrong you can distroy your carb.

What you will try, do remember that your airjet system has to work. (with drilled out boll ore tapped airjet pipe) you need some air there

The airjets can be ordered everywhere (small round mainjets from mikuni)
example: http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/catalogs/detail/19/162/1501/7549/all/0/0/1/4/49/1427/0/cv-carb-jets-small-round-main-jets-kn102221.aspx

you can PM. me if you want

Cheers

[deonillovo]

Hi Louis thanks for all the pics for me to do the air mod but why have i got fuel coming out of them if i suck on the pipe or let the bike stand for a while i am getting fuel that comes out of these pipes i have ordered 200/220 main jets and should be putting them in over the weekend i also have another set of carbs which i am going to drill out the brass ball and see if it helps please could you give me you email address so that i could email you some of the pics of the bike i did try and upload them but they seem to big to upload

Thanks;Deon

[Warwick]

Fuel will overflow through those mixer nozzle air intakes if the fuel height is too high (ie: the float height isn't set correctly) or the fuel intake needle valves are not functioning correctly or the floats sticking or punctured etc. Fix whatever is causing the high fuel height and fuel will not overflow - and the bike will run better too.

Simply drilling the ball out on it's own will not help. If removed it will need to be replaced by a jet, and the old side mounted air intake capped off.

[Edd]

Hi Deon;

I have phoned you 3 times last week no answer. Will try again this week. I only picked up the story line with your post of a new airbox. The symptoms you are describing is too much fuel to little air. Had the same problem my original airbox had holes cut into it, when I replaced it with a standard one she bogged down at 5500 rpm, reduced main jet by 20 and she was fine. Regarding the float levels as warwick says fix that first before playing around. It will be worth your while to buy oem needle valve assemblies from yamaha. You are going to struggle to find the problem it is usually in more than one area, and 3ma carbs are not easy to remove and replace to test as every one knows. The oem parts are expensive R400 per set but once you set the float levels you will not worry again for the next few years. I have restored 3 x 3ma bikes now and that is the first thing i do when i start with set up, float levels are crucial for maximum performance.

 I have two sets of air solinoids if you are interested, just not sure if they work never tested them. Maybe we can trade some body panels for your extra set of carbs? Have a stripped bike in the storeroom require carburators to make her run.

Cheers

[Warwick]

There's quite a bit you can do to simplify carb removal on the 3MA though. I can have mine off the bike in about 15 mins even if I'm starting with the fairing on.

Any or all of these will help heaps:

1. If you don't use it in sub zero temps ditch the carb heating circuit and hoses (you'll need to cap off the stubs on the cyl head obviously.

2. Ditch the radiator side mount brackets (the hoses alone give enough support, but you can make a small mount bracket to attach to the bottom of the rad to bolt it to the carbs easily too though.

3. Re-route cables and wiring a bit  (run them over the top of the rad but inboard of the rad mounts) and lose the awkward cable routing brackets on on the upper rad mount/s. 

4. keep the lower air box clamps tensioned only lightly so that they provide a bit of purchase on the carb belmouths and the main air box, but the whole thing can be removed and replaced simply by hand.

When testing settings I never run the fairing lowers in any case of course, so full removal of the carbs is simply a case of draining the coolant via the bottom hose/water pump joint, removal of the upper hose from the opposite side of the rad, undoing left upper rad bolt and sliding the rad off. The airbox will now simply pop off by hand. At this point you can do most jobs on the carbs (simply slacen the clamps and ease the carbs forwards in the mounting rubbers to remove the top covers for needle adjustment etc. For access to the bowls I juts push the airbox forward off the carb bellmouths and go in from underneath - a mirror on the ground underneath is useful if you are unfamilir with the carb layout.

Other than that just making sure that everthing that comes apart regularly is greased on putting back together will make life so much easier next time (choke and throttle cable mounts etc. - I only run the opening throttle cable myself).

With a bit of simplification and a little practice I find the 3MAs carbs are about the easiest of any bike to work on. Which is very useful in view of how often they need attention...  

It's also pretty straightforwatrd to remove the battery and toolbox from underneath completely. I run a little 3XV battery in the little space behind the riders seat. This de-clutters the underneath of the bike nicely and in all saved a couple of kilos or so too  .