RD350 YPVS Controller

[m3-paul]

Agreed, would be good info and something that would apply to probably all PV controllers. There is skant info available re the units themselves so anything that serves to educate in the voodoo surrounding these units would be great.

For anyone with a 2MA, if you think your YPVS controller is shafted and want to test that the servo itself is functional then simply disconnect the wiring block with four wires going to the main harness from the controller and connect the black/red wire in the block to the negative battery terminal and the black/blue wire to the positive terminal and if the servo is good it will cycle.

[ms51ves3]

For anyone with a 2MA, if you think your YPVS controller is shafted and want to test that the servo itself is functional then simply disconnect the wiring block with four wires going to the main harness from the controller and connect the black/red wire in the block to the negative battery terminal and the black/blue wire to the positive terminal and if the servo is good it will cycle.

Are we using the workshop manual? 

[m3-paul]

Found this out last year when I got the bike and the PVs didn't work when I was troubleshooting the issue and before I managed to find a copy of the manual - but yes, the manual does also detail this .

[Fotis]

the YPVS controller is the same on all bikes. As TZR-V4 said the only thing that changes is the grounding of the main IC. You can set from the IC if it is one cylinder or two, how fast to move, what angle to stop, start RPM and close RPM. Just look under the board and check the groundings of the IC on top left corner. IF you bypass them you will be able to change the settings. Currently I dont have any picture to show how is done but I will do it at some point this week because it has been kept like a dark secret all these years from the tuners...
Nowadays, its not even worth it since zeeltronic sells a fully customized controller but since you have the original why not? What I am doing on all of my controllers is the BDK setting since it works better.

[rubberfingers]

the YPVS controller is the same on all bikes. As TZR-V4 said the only thing that changes is the grounding of the main IC. You can set from the IC if it is one cylinder or two, how fast to move, what angle to stop, start RPM and close RPM. Just look under the board and check the groundings of the IC on top left corner. IF you bypass them you will be able to change the settings. Currently I dont have any picture to show how is done but I will do it at some point this week because it has been kept like a dark secret all these years from the tuners...
Nowadays, its not even worth it since zeeltronic sells a fully customized controller but since you have the original why not? What I am doing on all of my controllers is the BDK setting since it works better.

It all sounds so simple when you say it! As you have said the tuners, BDK etc have obviously had this knowledge for a long time, shame its not been in the public domain before. Please post whatever info you can

[SP_BOTT]

Interesting post, didn't realise they all opened at different revs, have also read the 500 unit when it goes pop, (which seems quite common) is best exchanged with the 350's, but is it right the plugs need swapping over?? I take it the cable colours are all the same. There's a very narrow rev band, from open to closed on the 500, anyone know the reason for this?

[m3-paul]

The thing that really irritates me is the compound that yamaha splatted over the controller board and ICs making it a proper pain in the arse to modify/fix. Does anyone have a solution to removing this compound, apparantly it contains some kind of glass that breaks up and fractures rendering the components on the board scrap.

[rubberfingers]

Interesting post, didn't realise they all opened at different revs, have also read the 500 unit when it goes pop, (which seems quite common) is best exchanged with the 350's, but is it right the plugs need swapping over?? I take it the cable colours are all the same. There's a very narrow rev band, from open to closed on the 500, anyone know the reason for this?

I have no idea but my 500 certainly does not feel slow  . I would imagine its all to do with the power and torque the motor produces so they change the timing of the valves to suit the particulat engine in order to get more midrange. As the 500 does not lack power it can open its valves sooner with no loss of midrange compared to the TZR etc. Just a guess

[Fotis]

It is very easy to remove even with a knife piece by piece carefuly. Its not like the cdi staff..trust me...
Its there just to protect the circuit from the moisture so if you remove it youll have to replace it somehow..maybe with a better waterproox box

[m3-paul]

All it would need is a waterproof membrane over it, something like part of the sheet put under door cards on car doors would be spot on. Am going to have a go at the original dead TZR one. I have no idea what component is shot but at a guess it would be the main IC so will try and dig it out. Am a computer systems engineer so hopefully should be able to do it without properly buggering things up .

[wullie3XV9]

If you manage to repair your P.V. controller, m3-paul, you could maybe start a little "sideline" repairing other peoples busted controllers ! Just a thought.  

[Fotis]

the main IC is a very old programmable 8bit so if it is burned then you cant fix it. Usually is the diode bridge on the output circuit. Sometimes is the circuit board that has been melted so if you resolder it it might work. (that happened to my controller)

[m3-paul]

The actual board itself is in very good condition so based on what you have said I would go for the diode bridge. Hmm, going to dig a little deeper and see if I could actually get it going.

[SP_BOTT]

keep us updated if you have a go, mine also looks like new inside, just doesn't work, will have a look for the diodes and see how easy a job it is to change, might lash it together and try first if I attempt any home repairs. will see how you get on first

[speedy]

hi ,

little correction on this , the TZR250 unit was popular for the RD500 becos of later open and closing and thus a better match for ported and tuned engines , toprev was 1000rpms higher then normal.....but again superceeded by the Zeels and ignitech controllers

i heard you can soak the units in cellulose thinner for a night and then it peels of more easely